Restaurant Brokers Dine at Husk in Charleston

Posted by Robin Gagnon on Jan 2, 2013 3:17:00 PM
Husk Charleston

The restaurant brokers spent a holiday evening checking out what is supposed to be one of Charleston’s finest.  We're talking about "Husk" which according to the New York Times was "hailed as possibly the most important restaurant in the history of Southern cooking, even before it opened in November" of 2011.

In great anticipation, the restaurant brokers attempted to book a table more than a month before our scheduled Charleston South Carolina visit.  Despite all the wonderful restaurants in Charleston (where do we start?  82 Queen, SNOB (Slightly North of Broad) and Carolina's are classic favorites), we were determined to experience Chef Sean Brock's newest.  Well the restaurant brokers weren't the only ones.  We were advised via Open Table and follow up direct phone call that there were "no openings" and reservations couldn't be accepted for any time on December 30th (a Sunday night!).  The helpful staff suggested we show up and take a seat at the bar around 5:30 and see whether a table might open up for our foursome.   That plan seemingly worked out as we were directed to the bar for less than twenty minutes before being called to a table. 

We preface this blog posting by saying that we are not food critics.  Nevertheless, as restaurant brokers we have eaten in some of the best and shall we say, "less best" that most major cities have to offer.  Our palates are adventure seeking (recall some earlier blog postings of the restaurant brokers trying ostrich and kangaroo meat for example) and you will understand we aren't shy when it comes to cuisine.

The premise of the restaurant is farm to table "southern style."  Chef Sean Brock was quoted as saying early on in the development of the restaurant that “If it ain’t Southern, it ain’t coming in the door.”  That means that not only are the grains, greens and proteins farm sourced (some from a local farm established just for this purpose outside Charleston), they must meet the further pedigree of originating below the Mason-Dixon line.  That's fitting for a city like Charleston steeped in history and home to some of the greatest battles of the Civil War.  With all this hype, it was no wonder that the restaurant brokers, one born and raised in the south and another with a foodie palate were eagerly anticipating a trip to this decidedly southern experience.

We started in the bar – an entirely separate building beside the restaurant.  It’s a traditional Charleston shotgun style building that is cozy and comfortable.  The specialty cocktails were a hit with our crowd but the wine list was only “so – so.” Eric went for the cider cocktail and pronounced it highly successful.  The others in the group were forced to choose from a somewhat limited wine by the glass list.  It seems the “southern theme” extends to the wine list because one featured chardonnay was produced at Biltmore Estates in Asheville North Carolina.  That may work for the tourists but wine making in North Carolina hasn’t caught up with the West Coast, France or even South African producers in the depth of taste and varietals.  The Pinot Noir and Pino Grizio we settled for were uninspired at best.

We were called from the bar to the table and despite the “no available reservations” for a month in advance, were seated upstairs where we had two entire dining rooms to ourselves (see photo - we're serious.  Not one other table seated for at least half an hour).

Our table of four started with appetizers including the Grilled Crostini with Tennessee Cheddar Pimento Cheese and Crispy Country Ham.  The cheddar pimento cheese had a bite and was a good starter.  We also tried the Butter Bean Hummus with Pickled Ramps, Heirloom Tomatoes and Grilled House Made Flat Bread.  Again, this was a dish worth having for a lead-in to the main event.  The South Carolina Shrimp and Geechie Boy Grits with Tomato Braised Peppers and Onions and Benton’s Sausage were delicious and made the biggest hit at the table. All in all, the appetizers were winners along with the fresh bread with a crusty salted and buttery topping.

Our server recommended pork since that’s “Chef’s specialty” so the men went with the pork chop she described as more than an inch thick.  The dish was listed on the menu (which changes daily) as VA Heritage Pork Chop, Smoky Butter Bean and Field Pea “Hoppin John” with Carolina Gold Rice, Rapini and Pot Likker Broth. 

Restaurant broker Robin Gagnon went for one of only two fish options and chose the Seed Crusted Flounder, SC Shiitakes and Baby Carrots, Ambrose Farms Broccoli with a Scallion Soy Broth.  One other guest chose Sorghum Glazed Chicken Breast with Toasted Pecans, Ember Roasted Baby Cabbage, Fingerling Sweet Potatoes, Cider Jus. 

In total the food was only okay.  The men’s pork was poorly cooked (overdone) as was my flounder.  Instead of flaky and delicious, I experienced dry and dreadful.  The same was reported on the chicken.  The manager stopped by the table and noticed that Eric had barely touched his pork and learned that we were less than pleased.  There was no follow up or feedback. 

We passed on dessert and drinks and went to a tried and true Charleston restaurant for those.  In all, a sad experience made more disappointing because our anticipation was so high.  The restaurant brokers advice – if you’re visiting Charleston, ignore the hype around Husk and make reservations at SNOB.

 


Topics: Restaurant Brokers

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